Cat Information

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And now that you know this, how many do you think find a good home, let alone a home at all?

(Hint: Not many....)

If an excuse of "I can't afford to get my cat fixed" comes to mind, that just isn't acceptable. Lots of animal clinics can do the altering for a minimal charge, and all you have to do is ASK!

There are even health benefits to altering: Spaying a female helps to prevent mammary tumors (and pregnancy as well...). Plus, spaying stops the rolling and howling that females do when they are in heat, which can be annoying!

Neutering a male helps in the prevention of testicular cancer(and of course, unwanted litters). Neutering also prevents spraying (phew! yuck!) and the desire to roam.

Some people say they have found homes for their cats' litters. That may sound great, but for every kitten born, about 5 die in a shelter. That kitten who died could have found a home with that very someone who decided to get one of their friend's litter instead of saving the kitten from the shelter. That poor kitten didn't have a chance in the world.

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(Reason: Natural instinct to sharpen and keep claws sharp.)

1. Buy or make a scratching post and encourage your cat to use the post by spraying/rubbing catnip on it and/or by taking your cat's arms and rubbing its claws on the post.
2. Spay animal repellent on the areas the cat scratches.
3. Use a loud noise, such as a handclap, when your cat scratches on the furniture. This will alarm the cat and make him/her stop. Next take the cat to his/her post and rub his/her claws along it.
4. Squirt the cat with water when the animal scratches on something it is not supposed to.
5. Place double faced tape on the area being clawed to discourage the cat from scratching. You can remove tape when cat has learned to avoid the area.

(Reasons: Cat doesn't like type of litter; Many litters have strong deodorants which some cats don't like; Many cats don't like the green litter; Litterbox is not clean enough; Cat doesn't like location of box; More than one cat uses litterbox.)

1. Try changing the brand of litter.
2. Change the litter every other day; remove droppings daily.
3. Keep litterbox away from food and water bowls, in an accessible area. Don't move it around.
4. You may need more than one litterbox if you have more than one cat.
5. You may need to confine the cat in a small room until he or she consistently uses the box.
6. Continuing problems with litter box use may indicate a health problem. Consult your vet for a thorough exam for your cat.

(Reason: Cats naturally like greens.)

1. Plant a special garden in a low, wide pot for your cat. You can grow catnip and plant birdseed. Supplies can be found in a pet store.
2. Try a loud handclap or a squirt of water from a squirt bottle when you catch you cat nibbling; then, place your cat in from of his/her own garden.
3. Try spraying the plant(s) with animal repellent or perfume.

(Reasons: Occurs typically in male cats, some female cats; Natural instinct to mark territory.)

1. Have your male cat neutered; you will have best results at curbing spraying if neutering is done at seven months of age.
2. There is a hormonal treatment available. Ask your vet about this.
3. Ask your vet for other medical possibilities.

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A cat's remarkable grace and agility, its faultless sense of balance, are, to a great extent, due to its retractable claws, which allow it to establish footing for walking, running, springing, climbing, or stretching. A cat's claws are also its best defense mechanism.

The outer part of a cat's claws regularly becomes frayed. When a cat scratches, it pulls off the outer part and exposes sharp, smooth claws. Scratching is also a way of fulfilling the cat's strong instinctive need to mark its territory. Not only does a cat mark an object visibly by scratching it, but the scratching deposits secretions from glands in the feet that can be smelled by other cats. Scratching may also serve psychological and physiological needs by providing comfort and expression in kneading, and allowing valuable stretching and foot-muscle exercise.

The standard declawing procedure calls for the removal of the claw, the cells at the base responsible for the growth, and part or all of the terminal bone of the toe. The operation is usually performed on the front feet. It is actually an amputation comparable to the removal of the fingers of the human hand at the last knuckle. The cat experiences considerable pain in the recovery and healing process.

In addition to the need for general anesthesia, which always presents a certain degree of risk to the patient's health and life, infection and blood loss are possible surgical complications of declawing. An incorrectly positioned cut can remove too much of the toe, taking with it part or all of the toe's pad. But if the whole claw is not removed, misshapen claws can grow back, requiring additional surgery. If a cat's nail is brittle or the trimmer is dull, the bone may shatter and cause what is called a sequestrum, which serves as a focus for infection, causing continuous drainage from the toe. This necessitates a second anesthesia and surgery. Abnormal growth of severed nerve ends can also occur, causing long-term, painful sensations in the toes. Great care must be taken after surgery that bandages wrapped tightly to control bleeding do not cut off circulation.

Although no definitive studies have been conducted on the effects of declawing, owners and veterinarians have noticed personality changes in some declawed cats. Formerly lively, friendly animals have become withdrawn and introverted. Others, deprived of their primary form of defense, become nervous, fearful, and/or aggressive, often using their only remaining defense, their teeth. The constant state of stress caused by a feeling of defenselessness may make some declawed cats more prone to disease. Some cats stop using their litter pan; this may be associated to the discomfort of scratching in the litter after the surgery.

A declawed cat must never be allowed outdoors; its ability to defend itself or escape from danger has been seriously impaired. Even indoors, a cat without claws faces dangers. One physical effect of declawing is a gradual weakening of the muscles of the legs, shoulders, and back; balance is impaired. This, combined with the fact that despite its grace, a cat's surefootedness depends on its ability to grasp quickly with its claws, means that a declawed animal can easily be injured in a fall.

Buy or make a scratching post that's tall enough so the cat can stretch completely when scratching, and stable enough so it won't wobble when being used. It should be covered with a heavy, rough fiber like the back side of carpeting. Place the post in an accessible area. If you're trying to discourage the cat from scratching a particular piece of furniture, try placing the post in front of the cat, gradually moving the post aside as the cat begins to use it regularly.

Train with a dual approach: discourage the cat from clawing the wrong things, encourage the cat to claw the right things. If the cat begins to scratch the furniture, call it by name, firmly telling it "NO," and move it to the scratching post. Put its front legs up on the post and make scratching motions with them. Or keep a squirt gun filled with plain water handy and squirt the cat on the back when it claws the furniture. Each time you bring it to the post or it goes on its own, praise your cat, pet it, and spend a minute playing at the post. Try rubbing the post with catnip; make it a fun place to be. At the same time, the favorite furniture scratching area can be made less attractive by attaching tape that is sticky on both sides or a piece of cotton scented with bath oil to the furniture.

Cutting the nails regularly may help keep a cat from scratching the furniture, or at least reduce the damage done by its scratching. Get your kitten used to having its nails clipped while it is young. With an older cat, it may help to begin by handling the cat's feet under pleasurable circumstances. Then begin to introduce the clipping procedure by approaching the cat while its relaxed or even napping and clip only one nail per session. Praise your cat while you clip the nail and reward it with a treat.

If you're in doubt about what the proper nail length looks like, have your veterinarian trim the nails once. The only equipment necessary is a good pair of nail clippers and a nail file or emery board to gently round off any rough edges. Never use scissors, since they can tear the nail.

Hold the clippers perpendicular to the nail you will be trimming and slide the blade onto the nail. Before cutting, look for the pink "quick" that runs down the center of the nail. The clipper blade should be placed about an eight of an inch forward of the quick, and the nail clipped with one smooth squeezing action of the clippers. Be extremely careful not to cut into the quick. If this happens, the cat will experience pain, and bleeding is likely. The bleeding may stop without assistance, or you may need to hold a soft cloth on the nail or apply a little styptic powder. If you trim a small amount of nail on a regular basis, the quick will actually tend to recede.

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